www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
if using methanol for enrichment do the gas jetting x 1.4 for your jet size

will you actually see much gain from using alky as an enrichment vs gas? or is it mostly out of convenience for those who run alky in the motor?

no gain over gas it is just convienient

i have used both and they ran about the same.

Do u know what the fuel pressure is for the NX Kit?????

Five psi

Here you go......

This calculator is not even close for those that run low pressure nitrous (regulated down pressure)
See what happens when you tell it you have half of that 900psi.

not to sound stupid but why would you reg. it under 900?

Just some info. first 2 pic are what happens when you are way rich. 3 pic is little to no fuel, lean. this is on gas.


A rich condition is what caused his problem, but this explanation is not exactly what happens. Lifted ringlands are caused by fuel wash from a rich condition. The fuel washes all the oil from the cylinder wall. This allows the rings and bore to be metal to metal. The ring friction builds tremendous heat(killing tension) and transferring that heat to the piston. The ring land is the weakest part of the piston, especially at the pocket. The heat weakens the piston in the lands, basically allowing the lands to move back and forth. Eventually the top of the piston lifts and breaks part of the pocket out, the second ring sticks where the land pinches it...and then, oil is sucked into the chamber past the stuck second ring and you get the burned piston, that everyone thinks is lean. What you see is actually an oil burn, caused by the oil that is bypassed into the chamber, which results in detontaion because of the diluted charge. 90% of nitrous related incidents can be related to a rich tune up and/or too much timing. A lean condition is VERY seldom the cause. You will never, I repeat NEVER, get a square, 2 or 4 pill spread on a fogger clean enough to run multiple kits, without going to crazy low fuel pressure, like below 3 psi. I don't like pressure that low, so most of my tune ups are 6, 8, or 10 jet spreads for foggers. On the average plate tune for a race car, I am 10-20 sizes larger on the nitrous side, depending on the tune.

oooh thats some nasty pics sub..i hope i never see that..lol..

whats about the biggest shot of nitrous you could put threw a stock stroke engine?

cast pistons?

well what would be the highest shot for each type, cast & forged

The biggest thing is to keep the engine out of detonation when using nitrous if not it is only matter of time before it blows up cast of forged. Now forged can take a little more detonation then cast. over rev will hurt parts too.

There is no real number to run, only can go with a small shot and take alot of timing out and check the plugs for detonation fuel, heat if all looks good add a few degs of timing and check plugs again and so on, stock parts wont last long with a very big shot not tuned correct.

they have the fuel smells for alky motors that cure fuel wash. jegs, summit, any of those carry it

i've personally ran 100 per cylinder (dry). In a 10mm stock cylinder that ran 81mph up sand mountain, nv. Craigs Packard 14mm 78 bore cheeta ran the same mph that year. The fastest 2 stroke twin ran 86mph that year. I had it on my 14mm but it was too violent to ride with a shorter swingarm. Kept lifting the front end straight up everytime i hit the nos. We started with a Boondocker snowmobile kit, ended up drilling our own sizes after that. I've heard of someone trying that (100 per cyl)in a wet application but didn't hear how it went.

sub95 in your pics were it was rich do you know how rich they was for it to cause the piston to do that..

I have a 180lb comp on both cyl running 1/8th mile on motor, We're getting ready to spray it, do i need to lower comp domes or just pull timing from it?

both imo

how much tming?..i was told to go 4-5 degrees down..also they say to tune your bike in on motor then drop timing but when u do that wouldnt it make it real fat..

just pull timing out and start with just a 40shot and gradually go up as you do plug reading....1/8 mile is a long pull so i would also start rich and lean up as you go...unless you have lots of nos knowledge start low and go up as you have luck with it...

So it's better with lower compression!

I have no idea.

5-1 is lean 7-1 is rich. I run my stuff around 5.5-1

Candy just pull alot of timing out and do a plug chop, add more timing in tell the plugs look perferct. if your tune is wrong on engine/na and the plugs dont look good, dont run nos tell you get it dialed in, then start using nos, start with a small shot to get the timing correct and jet spread that it likes, then with a big shot all you will need to do is take some timing out. this is where the dyno is good to have.

compression is fine for a small to med shot and big shots (but). if you want a huge shot i would back the compression down if you want the engine to last awhile, (here is the but) as with all power adders they beat the engine up more then NA and the bigger the power adder is the more wear and tear is.

power comes with a price

How much NOS is alot with 180lb compression.
BTW 180 is high for the 1/8th

WHAT ABOUT A SMALL SHOT WITH 180LB COMPRESSION, THINK IT'LL STILL DO OK!

what bore you running?

85

its a cougar sub..i think its 85mm..

good rule of thumb with nos is spray half of what your engine makes NA. anymore then that you better know how to really tune nos.

Where do yu find the nitrous regulators?? These pretty user friendly? Anyone using one? Thanks

what are you going to do with one of those?

use it as a paper weight on his desk ...pm kirks jockey he has one on a kit

Im not sure what your application is, but if you have to have one, I would use a reg off of a paintball gun... They seem to work well, are cost effective, and look fair.. I have used these on a dune setup, when running a blanket, but outside of that.. Im not sure they are necassary..

No I was thinking of regulating my nos psi down so I could get more passes before having to jack with the bottle.. Any one doing this? I know turbo Bobby is but dont know how to get a hold of him..

you still need 900-1050 psi, only thing the regulator is going to do is keep it at a pre set psi, so if you want to make sure its at 950 you would have to get the bottle psi up around 1000-1100.

regulator will not make you get more passes.

I've seen turbo bob running 500 to 600 psi with great success

being lazy, and running nitrous is not a good combination..

thats a cold bottle psi and does you no good for HP, if you keep the same fuel rate for 900-1050psi you are pig rich and could lock up the engine.

now you can do this if you know the fuel rate per given Nitrous psi to AFR. but you will spend alot of time on a dyno to do this.

when it comes to nitrous do it right or dont do it at all, not being mean to you at all. just when you start doing strange things that you have no idea about you will burn your engine up.

if your new to nitrous use the specs from you're kit and adjust in small steps.

Nitrous is not easy at all and its not for everyone.

I'm a nos junkie from way back I just saw a friend doing it this way and could use the same bottle for a whole race.. Kind of sparked my interests.. Thanks again for your input Oh and I agree theres nothing like a 1050psi hit on the bottle...

lol

There you are bobby... Going to Atoka this weekend? How is that regulated nos psi working for ya?

Here is a regulator someone on the planet told me about.... Pretty kewl one.. http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/PressurePro.asp

Yea, I plan to do t-n-t friday night and race saturday.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/cata...p;productID=955
I will see you there!

my 250r brother has came back lol sup Bobby

Sup bobby?? Hope to do a little racin with ya this season. I am sure I will see ya around. Maybe atoka in april. It doesnt look like I am gonna make march.

Whatcha working on now trent? Same combination.. Or a mo bigger engine?