Hello Tim, it is great to see new members posting, glad you found us here on PS, and welcome to our madhouse.....lol




I agree 100%, I would also like to see mandatory tech inspections required on all NOS bikes to include a normally closed solinoid in the nitrous system, which is tied directly to the kill switch so when the kill switch is pulled it would shut off the nitrous supply from the bottle. Everyone would like to believe we can think clearly under pressure, but it takes a VERY cool head to think about turning off the NOS bottle when your throttle is stuck wide open.....and that is assuming we mounted the nos bottle in a position that the rider could reach it while trying to control a runaway bike....lol

Maybe as a challenge we, (as manufacturers), need to try and develop a new "emergency shut-down system" which not only kills the ignition, but it also could shut off the fuel, shut of the nos flow, and maybe even close the air supply, whenever the deadman switch is pulled, or the kill switch is flipped.

Anyway.....(sorry about the rant....lol).....glad to see you feel there may be a place for a non-mechanical delay system in our clutches, if you want to talk about incorporating the system into your clutch, feel free to call if I can help. It may be a fairly easy modification to include the possibility of the "addition" of the TimeLoc to your present setup.

In working with Keith Mattoon, I understand he is going to "build-in" the seal plate with his next production of standard lockups, so the lockup can be used without the Timeloc parts, or the TimeLoc pieces can be added to his standard lockup when the customer sees a need for the system.

that will be great.

thanks for the warm welcome

I had mentioned this in an earlier reply and thought I would post a picture of the design I was talking about, I believe this particular design was built by Gann Custom Lockup, there are some designs that use a spring for each arm which would allow a certain amount of "multi-stage" adjustment

good to see some activity here ... On the kill switch, its all good on paper but at stuck WOT I doubt the kill switch will help on a methanol engine but that is another topic I haven't had time to read the new posts over yet but I will

He's refering to so much heat being built into the engine, that it will actually "diesel" if it were to run into a lean condition and hang. The spark plug acting like a glow plug.

Not the "pucker factor" and not thinking about pulling the lanyard.

On the big end, the only way to kill a motor is to cut the air and/or fuel supply going to the engine if it is running extremely lean. example, left crank seal going out for some odd reason. etc.

That picture is the most interesting I've seen yet...hmmm...

yep,they just dont need an ignition then... now that I think about it, I dont think anyone would let go of a 250 hp twin at wot and pull a lanyard either you would need some world class Butt cheeks and a good easy to clean seat lol


I love those adjustable springs, I wish we could have a way to have a variable primary spring pressure setup that adds primary spring pressure with the lockup phase. one of the problems with a big motor is actually recovering the clutch when it is slipping, it whats to keep on slipping lol

So i have tested this set-up at a couple of tracks, here is my opinion.
I very much like the way it feels it is way smoother off the line which i feel will help with some part failure(trannies?), however i believe the weight of the piece is too much for the stock inner hub, i know i destryoed one at AVI. Only thing im not sure of on the big bikes if we can actually get it to recover in a resonable amount of time.
I understand part failure will happen and that is part of testing im not complaining overall i like it so-far.

Thanks for the feedback Jade, I know at the track there is some hesitation in "sharing" any info but this is the first I had heard about ANY breaking of parts concerning the clutches.
While it would have been nice to see the broken part to try to figure out what happened, I guess I will need to try to duplicate the problem to see what happened.
Since we are discussing it here, a couple of questions if you don't mind.

Did you change to longer bolts on the 6mm bolts which hold the Timeloc unit onto the inner hub, or did you use the same ones that you already had used before? The reason that I asked is because we had tried to use the same bolts originally, and discovered they did have enough threads into the hub to hold, but the shorter bolts made it extremely hard to install when trying to overcome the spring pressure. Unless the person installing was extremely careful when bolting it onto the hub, it puts a tremendous side load on the posts which could easily break the spring posts.

Did/Do you use an electric impact to install the spring bolts, which holds the Timeloc in place?

When installing the unit, did you shim the TimeLoc to insure that it had at least .012-.015 clearance when the clutch was completely pulled in? If clearance is not present, extra pressure can be put on the spring bosses of the inner basket.

I am NOT trying to say the weight of the TimeLoc is not a factor to consider.....ANY weight added to the inner hub or input shaft should be considered when working on these machines......but if the weight was a problem, it should show up in a different way than in the breakage of the inner hub. I am VERY concerned about the weight shortening the life of the bearings, (and the bushing), on the inboard side of the clutch basket, but if the TimeLoc system does anything in the way of strength to the inner hub....it should strengthen the hub.....IMO

As I said above, I am not trying to say no problem exists.....I am just trying to ascertain what "could" have caused an inner hub to break. If you still have the broken hub, I would VERY much like to inspect it to see where the breakage occurred, broken spring posts may be the result of a completely different problem than a split inner boss, or a split outer spline.

Thanks for the feedback.

Sorry i meant to show you it and just never did. It was that all the spring post sheared off, it does have the longer bolts, remember this one came straight off keiths 4 cyl bike, and he helped me with the clearance. As for the impact yes i run em in with that and then tighten the last turns with a ratchet. They could have been to tight the legs on the inner hub are just cast (no harm intented) but they arent that strong.I think a billet inner hub would help.